Console tables made of solid wood and steel can cost $500-$800!
I built a similar solid wood and steel console table in one afternoon for around $150.
HOW TO BUILD THIS INDUSTRIAL FARMHOUSE CONSOLE TABLE:
1. Go to your local hardware store (I bought my supplies at Home Depot) and buy:Industrial Console Table List of Supplies
2. Remove any stickers and wipe away any debris, then LOOSELY connect the nipples and flanges to make four 24″ legs and four 3″ legs. (You will still be able to see some of the threading, they will not screw together completely.)
3. Spray paint the legs with the Rust-oleum hammered paint and primer.
4. While the legs are drying for 30-60 minutes, distress the boards. (My 11-year old son and his friend sanded the ends of the boards to smooth the edges and took a hammer and screwdriver to the boards. (Scratch against the grains of the boards to distress them. This will show up more deeply when you stain it.)
5. Use a damp washcloth to wipe away any sawdust from the sanding or debris from the distressing process.
6. Stain the boards. WEAR RUBBER GLOVES TO PROTECT YOUR SKIN. Use a washcloth and dip it into the Minwax stain. Rub your wash cloth along the boards to stain the boards. You won’t need to use very much stain. I only did one coat, but you could add another coat if you want the stain to appear darker.
7. Wait for the stain to dry about 30-60 minutes. (Optional: apply Minwax paste finishing wax to give it a matte glossy finish and protect your wood).
8. Measure the boards from the end to position the legs an equal-distance on each side of the boards. I measured 12″ in on each side, drawing a vertical line across the width of the board marking 12″ from the end of the board.
9. Screw the flanges onto the boards. I aligned the edge of the flanges inside my 12″ mark.
10. Drill pilot holes for each of the flanges. I unscrewed the nipples and flanges and held the flanges in place while I drilled the pilot holes.
11. Screw the 12 flanges to the top and bottom of one board and to the bottom of the other board.
12. Screw the 3″ nipples with flanges to the bottom of the board. It will be wobbly until you balance out the height by tightening or loosening the connections. (I found that it was easiest to screw the nipple into the flange completely on the bottom and loosen it while tightening the connection to the flanges above it.
13. Once the footings are balanced and attached to the bottom board, completely screw in the nipples to the flanges on the top of the same board.
14. Get someone to help you align the flanges attached to the top board with the nipples screwed into the bottom board. Once they are aligned, you will loosen the fittings on the bottom slightly as you tighten the fittings on the top. Test the connection periodically until the fittings are secured and aligned. This can take some time as you are balancing the height to make it level.
You are finished! Congratulations!!